Men’s Style- The business of hems

Guys can do little wrong when it comes to corporate style by following a few simple rules. Getting the fit and proportions right can make all the difference when it comes to putting your corporate look together.

You could have the most expensive suit on the market, but if it doesn’t fit properly, you’re going to look sloppy. A cheap suit is as easy to spot in a crowd as a bad toupee and as a rule, it’s better to have two great suits than 5 mediocre ones.

One of the most important things to get right are the hems- the shirt and jacket sleeve hems and the trouser hem. Ideally, your shirt sleeve should be slightly longer than your jacket sleeve. A little bit sleeve cuff (at least 1cm) should be visible at the wrist when worn with your jacket. If you wear cuff links, these should protrude from your jacket sleeve.

One hem doesn’t work on every pair of trousers. Regardless of what you’re having shortened or lengthened, take the appropriate shoes to the tailor. The break of your trousers should cover the tops of your shoes and part of the laces. The ‘break’ is where your pants touch your shoes. The lower the break, the deeper the horizontal crease that sits on your shoe. Most men’s suit trousers will have a bit of width at the ankle (unlike a skinny jean for example) so the trouser should always break on the shoe and not bunch excessively.

Men are developing an appreciation for the most crucial part of shirt and suit selection: fit. The hem guidelines above are really simple to follow when buying your next suit. And remember, a great tailor is worth their weight in gold.